Hello,I Have this Genie S45 boomlift in the shop that will start & run a few seconds & die. Has the Ford LRG425 EFI engine. I have figured out that the throttle valve is not opening but I cant find information as to what controls it or what inputs are needed to make work correctly. Also is there a connector on this machine to connect some sort of scan tool to it. Our main focus in the shop is more automotive so we`re a bit in the dark here. (Machine belongs to a friend ;)) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Leon
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Genie S45 Boomlift
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Genie S45 Boomlift
Hello,I Have this Genie S45 boomlift in the shop that will start & run a few seconds & die. Has the Ford LRG425 EFI engine. I have figured out that the throttle valve is not opening but I cant find information as to what controls it or what inputs are needed to make work correctly. Also is there a connector on this machine to connect some sort of scan tool to it. Our main focus in the shop is more automotive so we`re a bit in the dark here. (Machine belongs to a friend ;)) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Leon
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JLG 800A. Rotary coupling replace
Hello everyone
I'm new here in this forum; I'm from Ecuador South America. In my job we have some equipment to support facility operations in some of our customers.
I'm working now in a JLG 800A articulating boom lift. We have some liking from the internal seal in the center rotary coupling of the equipment, we asked to the local dealer about this issue, after they ask to factory they recommend replacing the coupling. We bought a refurbished one and now we want to change it, but we have some questions:
1. Is the coupling only manages the hydraulic fluid to the wheels motors?
2. Is necesary use some support on the base of the boom to prevent the boom fall down when we disconnect the hydraulic fluid lines?
I really appreciate your help with these problems.
BR
Alfonso
I'm new here in this forum; I'm from Ecuador South America. In my job we have some equipment to support facility operations in some of our customers.
I'm working now in a JLG 800A articulating boom lift. We have some liking from the internal seal in the center rotary coupling of the equipment, we asked to the local dealer about this issue, after they ask to factory they recommend replacing the coupling. We bought a refurbished one and now we want to change it, but we have some questions:
1. Is the coupling only manages the hydraulic fluid to the wheels motors?
2. Is necesary use some support on the base of the boom to prevent the boom fall down when we disconnect the hydraulic fluid lines?
I really appreciate your help with these problems.
BR
Alfonso
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Help with a TEREX TX51-19M forklift on electrical or hydrualic.
So I have a TEREX TX51-19M that is having a Frame wiring harness replaced.. its a lot of freaking work. first we can not get the vehicle to start ( one of our reasons for replacing the harness) and need to lift boom up to a 45 degree angle to put boom lock in. unfortunately this model does not have a manual boom lift method built in... or at least I cannot find one anywhere in the TM. we need to get the boom up ASAP. we cannot get underneath to just disconnect the hydraulic solenoid box to just push the fluid out...
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Improving Counterbalance Forklift Trucks
Hi! I am a engineering student currently participating in a project regarding the improvement of counterbalance forklift trucks.
It would be really helpful if you, with user experience of that kind of truck, would fill in this survey. It's only 10 questions and shouldn't take long.
The survey can be found here: https://sv.surveymonkey.com/r/BLVJGFF
Thank you in advance
Emma
It would be really helpful if you, with user experience of that kind of truck, would fill in this survey. It's only 10 questions and shouldn't take long.
The survey can be found here: https://sv.surveymonkey.com/r/BLVJGFF
Thank you in advance
Emma
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Th460B
Got an 06 TH460B. Sometimes it won't come out of crab mode. The lights on dash for 2Wd and 4w steer don't light up and then all of a sudden it will work. Any ideas. Thanks
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Yale 1303
I have an old Yale 1303 running on propane. It has never given me any trouble, but it decided it was about time. There doesn't seem to be much information on the web to help:(
The bit I need to know first is: What is the engine it is powered with? It is a 4 cyl ohv.:Banghead
Thanks
The bit I need to know first is: What is the engine it is powered with? It is a 4 cyl ohv.:Banghead
Thanks
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What is hard or costly to fix on forklift
Been looking around for a 3 to 5K pneumatic tired (gravel and concrete) forklift. Not in a commercial business so not looking for a machine that will work all day, just very now and then. Mainly to move around trails and boats inside my barn and shop. Found several or craigslist and LSN but what would be the things to stay away from?
Have rebuilt automatic tanny's, diesel engines and hydraulic systems. So if I found a "needs work" forklift what would be the things to look for and walk away from?
Have rebuilt automatic tanny's, diesel engines and hydraulic systems. So if I found a "needs work" forklift what would be the things to look for and walk away from?
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Block heater for Cummins B3.3 (in Snorkal TB60)?
It is a little tough to know where to put this thread. most boom lift threads are here, although this is really an industrial engine question. This B3.3 is a 2006 manufactured replacement engine from a factory rebuilding. Ser #68048575. It's up to about 1300 hours.
The manufacturer seems to specify a block heater in a small (about 9/16") freeze plug high in the block in the very center left side of the engine between the middle two cylinders.
unlike most freeze plugs that are larger but next to the cylinder wall this would require a long narrow straight heating element rather than a larger short element with a bend which is the standard generic on offer.
despite specifying this location for block heater, i can't find any reference to what after market heater they had in mind when they made this provision. It seems quite particularized. there is a tapped bolt hole next to the this plug that is apparently intended to hold the heater in so it would have a flanged plate that goes over the freeze plug hole instead of into it. given that it is only a single bolt hole, and not several to hold the plate throughout the circumference I would guess that the heater has an o-ring or expansion of some sort to seal.
cannot find any forum that really covers these engines (although they are apparently popular diesel converisons for jeeps.). And I assume but am not sure that they may have been used by Snorkel as original equipment in some years although the situation here is a retrofit. . .
The other concern I have with the specified hole, besides having trouble finding a heater that fits it, is that it is quite high on the block and I usually expect a heater to be lower so that the thermal circulation is better enabled. But maybe the heater would still displace colder water causing it to sink and creating thermal circulation effectively.
There are no heater hoses or takes offs that would facilitate an external heater that takes 5/8 or 3/4" barbed fittings. The radiator hoses are aftermarket accordion style, but i could replace the lower hose with two pieces and place a heater for 2" hose in that line, but both of the hoses go to the water pump housing which is high on the engine so i'm not sure, whether this would really warm the block that well.
Don't know if anyone has messed with these engines and not sure why cummins doesn't make better provision or their own part # heater, esp. where no glow plugs are fitting. What's the difference between paying 50 bucks for a heater and 150 bucks compared to being dead in the water . . . already had one cold morning where we had to charge it and wait for weather to warm to start it. And, even if I could reliably start it by topping the batteries in the winter, i think it is kinder to the engine to warm it up before you start it.
So appreciate anyone who has specific or generic ideas for approach to this.
brian
The manufacturer seems to specify a block heater in a small (about 9/16") freeze plug high in the block in the very center left side of the engine between the middle two cylinders.
unlike most freeze plugs that are larger but next to the cylinder wall this would require a long narrow straight heating element rather than a larger short element with a bend which is the standard generic on offer.
despite specifying this location for block heater, i can't find any reference to what after market heater they had in mind when they made this provision. It seems quite particularized. there is a tapped bolt hole next to the this plug that is apparently intended to hold the heater in so it would have a flanged plate that goes over the freeze plug hole instead of into it. given that it is only a single bolt hole, and not several to hold the plate throughout the circumference I would guess that the heater has an o-ring or expansion of some sort to seal.
cannot find any forum that really covers these engines (although they are apparently popular diesel converisons for jeeps.). And I assume but am not sure that they may have been used by Snorkel as original equipment in some years although the situation here is a retrofit. . .
The other concern I have with the specified hole, besides having trouble finding a heater that fits it, is that it is quite high on the block and I usually expect a heater to be lower so that the thermal circulation is better enabled. But maybe the heater would still displace colder water causing it to sink and creating thermal circulation effectively.
There are no heater hoses or takes offs that would facilitate an external heater that takes 5/8 or 3/4" barbed fittings. The radiator hoses are aftermarket accordion style, but i could replace the lower hose with two pieces and place a heater for 2" hose in that line, but both of the hoses go to the water pump housing which is high on the engine so i'm not sure, whether this would really warm the block that well.
Don't know if anyone has messed with these engines and not sure why cummins doesn't make better provision or their own part # heater, esp. where no glow plugs are fitting. What's the difference between paying 50 bucks for a heater and 150 bucks compared to being dead in the water . . . already had one cold morning where we had to charge it and wait for weather to warm to start it. And, even if I could reliably start it by topping the batteries in the winter, i think it is kinder to the engine to warm it up before you start it.
So appreciate anyone who has specific or generic ideas for approach to this.
brian
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JLG 1930ES Only Steers Left
The steering on our 2004 JLG 1930es (SN 0200119***) is stuck to the left and will only turn left, no matter which steer direction is selected. The joystick control works on other units. The hydraulic valve coils are energizing, the platform and ground software has been updated and the analyzer is reading everything okay. When the right steer switch in depressed the wheels stop fully left and there seems to be pressure applied to the lift cylinder, but it does not lift, as it shouldn't.
Has anyone had this problem or have any ideas how I can get this problem corrected?
Has anyone had this problem or have any ideas how I can get this problem corrected?
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Lull issues
Hi everyone
I have a 2008 Lull 1044c54 that is causing some issues. After running it for about 10-20 minutes the engine will sometimes just shut off. If you wait a minute or cycle the key a few times it will restart and run fine for another 10 minutes or so. The check engine light is on on the dash but i dont have a reader to see what the issue is.
Any ideas? I was thinking maybe a faulty temperature sensor (it reads fine in the dash) or shut off solenoid?
The engine is a Deere 4045T
Thanks
I have a 2008 Lull 1044c54 that is causing some issues. After running it for about 10-20 minutes the engine will sometimes just shut off. If you wait a minute or cycle the key a few times it will restart and run fine for another 10 minutes or so. The check engine light is on on the dash but i dont have a reader to see what the issue is.
Any ideas? I was thinking maybe a faulty temperature sensor (it reads fine in the dash) or shut off solenoid?
The engine is a Deere 4045T
Thanks
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Nissan/Datsun F02 power steering control valve question / service manual
Hello there everyone! I'm hoping I might find some information that has been difficult for me to track down. I'm working on a pre-'81 Nissan F02 forklift (full model CPF02A20V) that needed some work done on the steering assembly. It was leaking oil out of the grommet for the horn wire so I decided to change the oil seal at the base of the steering tube. Well that required me to remove and completely disassemble the steering assembly. The trouble came when I pulled off the power steering control valve and the reaction pistons/plugs that sit inside the spool came tumbling out onto the work bench. I have no idea which ones go where. There are two kinds, solid and slotted, with a total of 8 (4 on each side). Does anyone have any experience/documentation with something like this? I have a parts diagram from the dealer that "shows how it goes together" but its not detailed enough to identify the position of the specific types. I also have the steering assembly section of the service manual and that also does not detail the position of these valves. I've tried searching part numbers to get pictures of the control valve and I just can't seem to find anything useful. Alas... here we are.
Thank you in advance for any help anyone can provide. I've removed and reinstalled this thing about 4 times now and I'm starting to lose my mind.
This is the steering assembly still in the forklift.
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Shot of the bottom of the valve
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Shot of the top of the valve
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Thank you in advance for any help anyone can provide. I've removed and reinstalled this thing about 4 times now and I'm starting to lose my mind.
This is the steering assembly still in the forklift.
Shot of the bottom of the valve
Shot of the top of the valve
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Cat V40 B forklift
I just purchased a Cat V40B. It is not at the shop yet, so I am guessing at the model number. It is an LP flat head 4, 2 speed manual transmission.
I can't seem to buy anything with good tires, and the solid rubber tires on this lift are pretty slick. I am planning on buying some new pneumatic tires for it after it gets here. I need the best possible traction in dirt, and don't really like the price of new solid rubber tires.
Everything seems to function on it, though it does have some issues. The steering valve is stiff turning left, so that likely needs to be rebuilt. The side shift cylinder was leaking and was removed and capped off, not sure if I will even attempt to repair that right away. Other repairs are mostly cosmetic. The paint is awful, the plastic piece that the gauges sit in is falling apart, as is the escutcheon for the shifter. Clutch and brakes are decent.
It will likely get moved Tuesday or so. I will likely pressure wash all the old grease off of it and regressed all the pins and the mast, then use it for a while to figure out what the worst parts of it need repair.
I can't seem to buy anything with good tires, and the solid rubber tires on this lift are pretty slick. I am planning on buying some new pneumatic tires for it after it gets here. I need the best possible traction in dirt, and don't really like the price of new solid rubber tires.
Everything seems to function on it, though it does have some issues. The steering valve is stiff turning left, so that likely needs to be rebuilt. The side shift cylinder was leaking and was removed and capped off, not sure if I will even attempt to repair that right away. Other repairs are mostly cosmetic. The paint is awful, the plastic piece that the gauges sit in is falling apart, as is the escutcheon for the shifter. Clutch and brakes are decent.
It will likely get moved Tuesday or so. I will likely pressure wash all the old grease off of it and regressed all the pins and the mast, then use it for a while to figure out what the worst parts of it need repair.
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Hyster H50 Forklift, Hydraulic mask seals leaking !
I have an old 1982 Hyster H50 forklift with twin Hydraulic mast, one mast behind the other.
The beast finally started leaking too much, it is now seeping out the Top front 76mm (3") cylinder seal, and a tad out of the rear 70mm (2.76") seal.
Anyone know where I cam purchase these seals in Australia ?
If anyone is interested in repairing at least the first stage, I will pay Cash !
Forklift is located in Rozelle (Sydney) with 24/7 access.
I should be able to Remove the first cylinder for repair if required !
Regards,
Den
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The beast finally started leaking too much, it is now seeping out the Top front 76mm (3") cylinder seal, and a tad out of the rear 70mm (2.76") seal.
Anyone know where I cam purchase these seals in Australia ?
If anyone is interested in repairing at least the first stage, I will pay Cash !
Forklift is located in Rozelle (Sydney) with 24/7 access.
I should be able to Remove the first cylinder for repair if required !
Regards,
Den
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old upright tiger manlift
the lift goes up ,and steers ,goes forward and back but will not up hill motor runs but machine stands still
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JLG 1930ES Pothole Protection Reading Reversed
My 2004 JLG 1930ES has a "DRIVE PREVENTED-POTHOLE NOT ENGAGED" HELP message and "POTHOLE PROTECTION FAULTY" SYSTEM message.
When the platform is down I'm getting "LT PHP DOWN" (it's up) and "RT PHP UP"(where it is, and should be).
When I raise the platform I get "LT PHP UP" the opposite of where it actually is. (The right PH switch is where it should be.)
If I manually operate the left PH switch nothing happens;but, if, when the platform is elevated, I put a piece of metal on the Elevation Proximity Switch the reading changes to "LT PHP DOWN".
I've adjusted and tested the PHP switches with a multi-meter and they are both working; but I'm always getting a false reading as to the position of the left PH switch . Any ideas as to what the solution to this might be?
When the platform is down I'm getting "LT PHP DOWN" (it's up) and "RT PHP UP"(where it is, and should be).
When I raise the platform I get "LT PHP UP" the opposite of where it actually is. (The right PH switch is where it should be.)
If I manually operate the left PH switch nothing happens;but, if, when the platform is elevated, I put a piece of metal on the Elevation Proximity Switch the reading changes to "LT PHP DOWN".
I've adjusted and tested the PHP switches with a multi-meter and they are both working; but I'm always getting a false reading as to the position of the left PH switch . Any ideas as to what the solution to this might be?
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Looking for a Cat V40 manual.
Looking for a service manual for my Caterpillar V40-B. It seems to be a bit scarce. If anyone has one I would much appreciate it.
Thanks,
Thanks,
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Jcb 506b
Our machine won't move. What could be the problem
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Genie TMZ34
I have a Genie TMZ34 manufactured in 2002 that is not working. When we turn it on there is a red light flashing in the box behind the key. Under the light it says CPU Fault. We can't even get an error code to start diagnosing the problem. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
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Inverting forklift wheels
I am getting ready to change the tires on my Cat V40 forklift. The wheels that are on it have an offset on them that puts them nearly flush with the hubs on the outside. My fenders stick out beyond the tires several inches. The tires still clear the mast by several inches.
I am wondering if I can flip the wheels so that the tires are more outboard to provide as much stability as possible. This would leave them flush with the fenders on the outside, and with a fair gap between the tires and the mast. I imagine the fenders were set up for dual fronts, but have singles now. Not sure if they use the same hub for duals or not.
The reason for wanting more stability is that I drive a lot on off camber ground with several dips that I have to traverse at an angle. I don't generally carry heavy loads, or high loads, usually no more than 1000 pounds at most. My last forklift had gotten on three wheels more than I like to think about, usually unloaded, carriage down, and hitting a small rock. I also lay the old one down on its side once. It was a slow wreck, and I got off and watched helplessly as it same into soft wet dirt on the low side crossing a slight incline. I should have quit for the day instead of trying to finish up in the rain. Hence the reason for my squeamishness regarding stability. This one is a bit wider, longer wheelbase, and bigger tires than my 3000 pound Towmotor, so I really don't anticipate any big troubles, but if I am getting new tires, I need to know which way to point the valve stems.
Thanks,
I am wondering if I can flip the wheels so that the tires are more outboard to provide as much stability as possible. This would leave them flush with the fenders on the outside, and with a fair gap between the tires and the mast. I imagine the fenders were set up for dual fronts, but have singles now. Not sure if they use the same hub for duals or not.
The reason for wanting more stability is that I drive a lot on off camber ground with several dips that I have to traverse at an angle. I don't generally carry heavy loads, or high loads, usually no more than 1000 pounds at most. My last forklift had gotten on three wheels more than I like to think about, usually unloaded, carriage down, and hitting a small rock. I also lay the old one down on its side once. It was a slow wreck, and I got off and watched helplessly as it same into soft wet dirt on the low side crossing a slight incline. I should have quit for the day instead of trying to finish up in the rain. Hence the reason for my squeamishness regarding stability. This one is a bit wider, longer wheelbase, and bigger tires than my 3000 pound Towmotor, so I really don't anticipate any big troubles, but if I am getting new tires, I need to know which way to point the valve stems.
Thanks,
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